How to Install a DIY Board and Batten Wall

We had a small wall between the bay window and new double patio doors in our old family room that needed this pretty trim, so I took photos along the way to show how it's done.

This is what I started with:

Now that I’ve done this a few times I always start with the top horizontal board. 

This pic really shows the difference in the new and old paint colors! The bottom is the Sisal color we had up for ten years, the top is Analytical Gray that we’ve recently painted throughout the main floor of our house.

Before I install any additional trim, I paint the wall first: 

You'll need to touch up around the boards later, but overall it's easier to paint the wall without the trim on it. 

It takes me three coats to get it covered well. I just use the base white from Sherwin Williams – I believe it’s called Pure White. I will also use a basic semi gloss white off the shelf at the hardware store.

Start with the top board

Here’s a close up of the top piece – it’s actually three pieces of wood/mdf:

The mdf is the main piece along the bottom, there’s a 1x2 on top (either wood or mdf – I usually use mdf but I was using what I had in my scrap pile) and then a small decorative trim piece in the corner those two create.

I don’t always add that little corner trim – in our mud room board and batten with bead board I did a similar 1x2 topper and just left it without for a simpler look:

Here’s a side view of how it comes together:

I haven’t touched it up yet, obviously. ;) You can do a nicer “return” at the end and most of the time I do that, but I’m not sure if I’m adding this trim around the bay window area with the window seat or not. 

So I just did a straight cut and I think that’s fine too.

Determine if baseboards need to be removed

The bottom of our board and batten wall is a little more complicated for a few reasons. But stay tuned, because it doesn't need to be this complicated. 

I did the baseboards like this in a connecting space so had to match the rest of the room to it when we took the wall down:

I did it this way because our original baseboards are impossible to remove -- so I just cover them up. 

I shared how I’ve installed new baseboards over old ones before. Here, the contractors removed the base when they installed the new door so I had to use scrap behind it to mimic the look around the room.

So that’s why it’s so busy down there. All of these extra steps are so the vertical boards have a flat surface to butt up against at the bottom. Otherwise they will most likely be thicker than your baseboards and hang over the edge a bit. 

You can avoid all of this at the bottom by just removing your existing baseboards and replacing them before installing the trim. 

If your baseboards are already thicker than the vertical boards, you're in luck! No need to remove them. 

Determine the spacing of your vertical boards

Install your vertical boards 

Measure the distance from the top of your baseboards to the bottom of your topper piece: 

I’ve done this both ways – the longer boards first and the topper second, but I find I can get a tighter fit if I do these second. (I can get it just right so I don’t have gaps.)

I use a standard, 18 gauge nail gun to install this trim.

I never recommend using a construction adhesive or glue like Liquid Nails to attach trim to walls. If you ever decide to remove it later, you'll be left with a LOT of drywall repairs. 

Brad nailers are more than sufficient, and you don't have to hit wall studs for every board. Angle your nail gun into the wall a bit if your trim is not holding. 

As you'll see later, paintable caulk and nail filler will hide any imperfections beautifully!

For a traditional board and batten look, you'll want some horizontal trim pieces to finish off the look. Those go on last:

My spacing around the room has been 10 inches down from the topper. Of course that was brilliant spacing because it hits every. single. switch. :) 

Do as I say, not as I did on this particular project, and check the height of your switches first. 

Working around light switches and electrical outlets 

It's nearly impossible to miss all of these obstacles around a room. 

When I hit a switch or outlet, I install the trim around it. Some prefer not to, but in the end everything is (ideally) the same color, so you'll barely notice it. 

You can use a jigsaw to notch out a spot for the outlet or switch plate. 

I prefer to cut small sections of the trim do that section in three pieces instead. I measure the small sections, install them around and then use wood filler to touch it all up. 

Finishing touches with caulk and paint

Caulk makes all the difference in a project like this! If you have any gaps behind the boards, this will make everything look seamless. 

If you're new to it, I share some caulking tips here!

You'll want to fill your nail holes and any gaps or seams between boards as well. This is my favorite nail filler. 

After caulk, nail filler and two coats of paint on the boards, your wall is ready!:

The baseboards will continue to the window seat so that area is undone for the time being. I’m finishing up the crown extension this weekend so that wall will be completely done!

Board and batten trim is not a hard DIY project -- it just takes time. I used some scrap and some new mdf boards for this section. One eight foot piece gets you one board (more if you’re making yours shorter) and at least one batten. ;)

And of course this wall now matches the living room finally!:

Have you done this treatment on your walls? If you have any questions please let me know! 

Here are a few of the ways I've used this trim in our homes:

I created a dark gray board and batten accent wall in our last bedroom:

A pretty board and batten accent wall under our staircase: 

I used just the battens from top to bottom in our entryway (for super cheap!):

And I framed out our shiplap walls in our old powder room: